Vox ac30cc2 top boost mods#
The problem is mapping them to the new board.which I've done The CC2/Lyle Caldwell mods references are on the left, the C2 on the right
Vox ac30cc2 top boost series#
The AC30cc2 and AC30C2 Preamps are almost exactly the same, apart from the the C2 series doesn't have the switches and have chosen far more sensible values for the treble bleed caps etc.
Vox ac30cc2 top boost update#
Thought I'd best to update this to match the newer AC30 I think you get a better amp out of the box with a C2, but you can make the cc2 an amazing amp for less money.
Sounds great on paper but they cheaped out on the cab (mdf vs cc2 Birch), removed the option for a tube rectifier (them feels mang), put the tubes in a position that will bake the PCB over time (heat from all tubes goes straight up to PCB, will surprised if things don't go pear shaped later), removed the cool functionality like filtering and wattage select and the simple input link. They responded to consumer demand again by removing the bells and whistles, changing from an input link switch to hi/Lo inputs per channel,changing to solid state so people could use stand by, mounting the tubes fender style so they're easier to get to, and most importantly, proper Celestion speakers (greens or blues). They also somehow didn't get that the way they did the standby would eat recipients but they were responding to consumer demand. I honestly think that with the cc2, they did a lot of great bells and whistles like input linking, tube bias, EQ response switching, and filter switches but offset the cost with cheap speakers. Then they wouldn't have a reason to come out with the C2 series! There are a few mods there that are purely because it's a very early run cc2 and they got fixed later in production, like crap tubes, wrong fx loop cap value (schematic typo), trem speed, hardwired speakers, the rest are gravy. Only one last thing for me to swap out really, and that's the OTĪlanp wrote:Something I always wonder about.
The biggest fixes tonally have been the speakers and bright caps, the rest is cumulative or just fixing things for better utility for me. If I discount speakers and tubes, it was probably $80 of parts and 2 hours of time which has been time and money very well spent – Changed tubes to JJ power + rectifier, Sovtek preamp (Sovteks were surprisingly good, although I have some Tung Sols to try, and a Weber Copper cap for if the rectifier goes) – Changed crappy Wharfedales out to Alnico's, settling on the classic 2x Celestion Blues (great combinations included 2x Greenbacks, Silver + G12H30, Silver + Creamback, Silver + Blue, Gold + Blue, 2x Gold - favourites were blue + gold, 2x golds, 2x blues)
– Swapped out all the caps in the signal to Mallory caps (C11,C14, C15, C17, C18, C19, C20, C23 to Mallory equivalents) – Changed the screws out for ones that don't strip instantly – Changed the Plate resistors for more gain, and more vintage spec (replaced R6 & R7 100k Plate Resistors with 220K Resistors) – Removed Top Boost Cathode Bypass cap for tighter bass, more headroom on the TB channel (removed c9) – Changed the treble cap in the top boost channel, and the one on the TB vol pot (c13 to 68pf, c16 to 47pf) – Added more gain to the normal channel, changed the brilliance switch caps to be useable (removed and jumpered R49, C12 to a 100pf cap, and then put a 68pf cap across lugs 1 and 2 of the Normal volume pot) – Sped up the Tremolo (changed R38 to 27K, R37 to 100k) – Swapped out reverb tank for an Accutronics one (replaced R18 with a 28K, added a 470K resistor across lugs 1 and 3 of the reverb drive switch, replaced pan with Accutronics pan # 9EB2C1B)
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